"I am not a witness of the past, but of the present," says
Pierre de Colbert in front of his family's château in Montpellier, France. Coming
from a French count and ninth-generation winemaker
whose family has been tending grapes on that spot since 1696--this is quite a
statement.
Château
de Flaugergues, within the city limits of
Montpellier, knows why it is in business: "Here we are not focused on myself or
my family--what would be the point of that? What is behind a bottle of wine?" he
asks. "It is your pleasure. Sharing with your friends, spending that time with each other
in pleasure."
A few years ago the family opened up the estate to visitors, who can dine at the excellent café and tour the antiques-filled house,
replete with portraits of family members (including ones who were guillotined
in the French Revolution).
The Château is a decidedly friendly place to visit. If you
are expecting the stereotype of the aloof French, you won't find it here. The count
is a humble and friendly man who may stop by your table or
guide you through a wine tasting, or even (if you are lucky) walk you through
the château and tell you the stories of some of the relatives hanging on the
wall.
There was a time when all of Montpellier was a very welcoming
place. The rulers made a point of encouraging people of all religions to come
there. It was renowned for having Jews, Muslims, Christians and others all
living together in the city, not segregated into ghettos. There are remnants of
this tradition all over town, including a late 13th-century mikveh
(ritual Jewish bath) recently re-discovered and under archeological study.
Centuries changed and history ran its course, but it appears the welcoming traditions of Montpellier are coming back.
[France Travel Guide]
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